Costume

Many of the costumes in kabuki reflect the contemporary styles of the day and in fact there was reversal of influence when the theatre began to set the trend of dress for fashionable society.

Costumes can designate the class, traits, or age of a character by colour, contour and textile. In addition there are several styles which display an element of fantastic invention particularly suitable for the roles of non human manifestations or "super heroes" such as Shibaraku.

Two reasons are suggested as to the need for the invention of such exotic and fantastic creations.The need to simulate the lifestyle of the aristocratics who were made the subject of a particular drama, and to satisfy the demands of the chounin.

Whilst it would have been straightforward to imply nobility by aping the style of aristocratic clothing and using the same rich materials, because of the draconian restrictions banning imitation of the noble classes, the use of similar fabrics and clothing styles was proscribed. Therefore, ingenuity was left to find an alternative method to imply the importance or stature of a particular character. This was done with the use of extravagance in colour, pattern and design, and in this way the hard pressed theatre managers were able to exploit several loopholes in the law. For example, whilst the use of printed satin had been forbidden, this textile could be mimicked with exotic embroidery or appliqué. Fortunately for kabuki, the city officials responsible for upholding the law were as interested in theatre as the chounin, so whilst following the letter of the law exactly to restrict use of prohibited fabrics, the means by which they were replicated was of no concern.

Increasingly extravagant costumes were designed to fulfil the burgeoning need for more glamorous attraction in order to satiate the desires of the increasingly wealthy chounin for spectacle. Again, this was not without risk for, as with other areas of society, the strict and oppressive government regulations prohibited any expression of ostentation for anyone but the ruling class. Mid-eighteenth century a high ranking government official, Matsuda Sadanobu instituted a ban upon the wearing of luxurious clothing, and theatres were obliged to submit their designs for approval for each new production. These restrictions were still in place by the mid 19th century and resulted in the actor Danjuro VII being sentenced to house arrest for wearing a particular type of armour worn only by samurai. This was eventually extended to banishment from Edo (Tokyo) for eight years when it was discovered that he was privately leading a lavish life style resembling that of a feudal lord (daimyou).

The costumes themselves are full of subtlety, illusion and hidden meaning, and for the more informed kabuki-goers help to emphasise a character's role. The short happi coat for example can infer a samurai's armour and may be printed with the mon or crests of the acting company. The multiple layers of an onnagata's costume is achieved by showing just the hem of each new fabric which is attached to the main outer garment, and the flash of a red lining in a kimono suggests the role of a courtesan. Tattoos, which even to this day symbolise criminality, are applied to a body stocking resembling a flesh-coloured set of "long johns".

Certain plays are based upon a series of costume changes (hengemono) and these can be enacted by the special technique of hikinuku where a kouken will remove a series of basting threads to allow an outer costume to be removed speedily whilst the actor remains in performance.

Other elements of costume include the wigs (katsura - each consisting of individual strands of hair attached to a copper base that has to be redressed for each performance), headbands (hachimaki), hats (kaburimono) and handcloths (tenegui - put to a variety of uses, frequently as head cloths).

An additional important item of costume is the fan (ougi) of which there are many different types. This is a device used to great purpose particularly in shosagoto where it can be used to imply or mime a wide range of text related meanings ranging from swords or spears to running water and mountain ranges.

Onnagata playing a young girl

Sukeroku - a young rake

Shibaraku - with everything from sword to sleeves exaggerated

Shishi costume - lion